完美日記背后從產(chǎn)品設(shè)計(jì)，到視覺營(yíng)銷的秘密武器  M I N T A K A

在很長(zhǎng)一段時(shí)間里，中國(guó)美妝市場(chǎng)被如L'OREAL PARIS、LANCOME、Estee Lauder等國(guó)際品牌主導(dǎo)，但是這一切正發(fā)生著巨大的變化。

For a long time, the Chinese cosmetics market has been dominated by international brands such as L'OREAL PARIS、LANCOME and Estee Lauder. However, a great change is now taking place in this market.

2019天貓雙11，交易金額瘋狂上漲的24小時(shí)里，美妝個(gè)護(hù)領(lǐng)域以115.3% 成為了增速最快的品類。彩妝前十銷售榜單中，國(guó)產(chǎn)品牌占據(jù)2席，包括年輕的完美日記和花西子。完美日記PERFECT DIARY是當(dāng)天首個(gè)銷‌售額破億的美‌妝品牌，僅28分鐘超出20‌18年雙十一全天銷售額，花西子亦一小時(shí)破億。

In the 24 hours of the Tmall “Double 11 Festival” 2019 , the transaction amount rose sharply , and the beauty and personal care field became the fastest growing category with a 115.3% growth. In the top ten cosmetics sales list, there are 2 young Chinese brands which occupy 2 seats, Perfect Diary(完美日記) and Florasis (花西子) .

至2019年末，騰訊出品的《2019國(guó)貨美妝洞察報(bào)告》顯示，國(guó)產(chǎn)品牌的市場(chǎng)份額已占中國(guó)美妝市場(chǎng) 56%。國(guó)產(chǎn)美妝品牌的成功，到底做對(duì)了什么?

PERFECT DIARY was the first beauty brand in “Double 11 Festival” whose sales reached 100 million CNY. Hanako also followed closely. At the end of 2019, Tencent's “2019 Domestic Beauty Brand Insight Report” showed that Chinese domestic brands accounted for 56% of the Chinese cosmetics market. What exactly are the key facts of the success for these brands?

　　新媒體的寵兒

　　The New Favorite in the New Media Age

李佳琦在2019年成為花西子首席推薦官。李佳琦利用直播介入，貫穿花西子從預(yù)售到雙十一全過程。而2019正是直播帶貨的風(fēng)口，內(nèi)容營(yíng)銷格局發(fā)生巨變。這印證了一個(gè)事情：誰能搶占新渠道，即有可能成為新國(guó)貨贏家。

Li Jiaqi, Chinese ‘Lipstick King’ (He raised more than 1 billion CNY in sales on Singles’ Day), became the CPO(Chief Promotion Officer) of Florasis. Li used live broadcast to go through the whole promotion process of Florasis from pre-sale phase to the end of the ‘double eleven festival’. That has become a very popular way worldwide --- internet personalities promoting products to their fans and followers via broadcast. And this confirms one thing: whoever takes the best advantages of the new media channel wins.

事實(shí)上，中國(guó)頭部美妝品牌大多誕生于2016年國(guó)內(nèi)內(nèi)容電商風(fēng)口期，他們是天生的線上電商品牌。完美日記、花西子、橘朵等都在此期間成立。他們快速進(jìn)入新媒介，以低成本大量觸及到用戶，建立起品牌認(rèn)知，在國(guó)際大牌緩慢反應(yīng)期間占領(lǐng)市場(chǎng)，野蠻生長(zhǎng)。

In fact, most of China's top beauty brands were born in 2016, and they are naturally ‘e-commercial’. Perfect Diary, Florasis, Orange Blossom and so on were established during this period. They quickly adapted to the new media, reached a large number of users at low cost, established brand recognition, occupied the market during the slow response of international big names, and grew wildly.

PERFECT DIARY完美日記

花西子

COLORKEY珂拉琪

完美日記是搶占先機(jī)的標(biāo)桿。于2019年9月獲得由高瓴資本領(lǐng)投、紅杉中國(guó)華人文化跟投的完美日記，估值達(dá)到10億美元。這并不是完美日記第一次獲得投資，充足的資本背景讓它得以在新渠道大勢(shì)擴(kuò)張。

Perfect Diary is the one of the early movers who perfectly grabbed the favorable business opportunities. In September 2019, the company completed a round of financing led by Gaoling Capital and Hongshan China with the cast. After that, the company was valued around 1 billion US Dollars. But it was not the first time Perfect Diary obtained investment. In fact, sufficient capital is the reason why this company could grow so aggressively in the new media channel.

2018年起，完美日記在小紅書上開始投放明星、頭部及腰部KOL、素人筆記。截至2019年底，小紅書上共有14萬篇筆記，官方粉絲175萬，遠(yuǎn)超其他國(guó)產(chǎn)美妝品牌。有了經(jīng)驗(yàn)后，相同的方式被復(fù)制到抖音，讓完美日記在短視頻領(lǐng)域獲得優(yōu)勢(shì)。

Since 2018, Perfect Diary has been advertising on a popular application called Xiaohongshu(a social media and e-commerce platform). And apparently the effort has been paying off. Perfect Diary now has more than 1,750,000 followers and 140,000 notes on this app, which is nearly impossible for other opponents to catch up. After this first success, they used the same strategy on TikTok, giving the brand an advantage in video-sharing social networking platform.

這種搶占新渠道的本質(zhì)是搶占年輕消費(fèi)者。2019年618，在天貓00后國(guó)貨粉絲占比中，完美日記排名第二，第一和第三分別為華為和中國(guó)李寧。如今的年輕消費(fèi)者并不認(rèn)為貴就是好，他們更愿意為質(zhì)感和個(gè)性化買單，購買商品背后的身份認(rèn)同和圈層認(rèn)同。在產(chǎn)品質(zhì)感上，國(guó)內(nèi)外品牌差距已不大。而在制造個(gè)性化，即品牌的差異化上，國(guó)產(chǎn)美妝正在積極探索。

The essence of this whole strategy is to seize the market of the young generation. Some data from Tmall 618 Festivals shows that Perfect Dairy has the second most fans in millennials, behind Huawei. Today’s young customers do not equate price with quality anymore. Instead of purchasing expensive luxuries，they are more willing to spend money on something with more texture and personalization, something they can identify themselves with, and something which can show the world who they really are. And in this respect, the gap between domestic and foreign brands is becoming much smaller. Companies like Perfect Dairy and Florasis are also actively exploring more ways to reflect more personality on their products.

　　差異化撬動(dòng)溢價(jià)力

　　Differentiation Charges Price Premiums

BrandZ™數(shù)據(jù)顯示，2018年對(duì)品牌溢價(jià)力的貢獻(xiàn)中，差異化(與其它品牌不同)達(dá)到47%，有意義(恰到好處地滿足消費(fèi)者需求)相比14年的50%下降到45%，而突出性(迅速被想起)是8%。差異化在提升品牌價(jià)值中變得越來越重要。

BrandZ™’s data shows that in 2018, the most important factor of charging a price premium is differentiation(47%), followed closely by meaningfulness(45%, was 50% in 2014). Differentiation is becoming more and more crucial in promoting brands’ values.

　獨(dú)特有效的品牌視覺表達(dá)和傳遞是美妝護(hù)膚制造差異化關(guān)鍵之一,它讓消費(fèi)者清晰意識(shí)到購買產(chǎn)品能得到什么樣的身份與圈層認(rèn)同。 Tom Ford美妝以極致性感為記憶點(diǎn)，Serge Lutens復(fù)古迷人的廣告女郎形象被時(shí)尚博主自主傳播，而完美日記則呈現(xiàn)的是不加掩飾的中性和張揚(yáng)。

Being unique and effective on visual expression and transmission is one of the main keys to make ‘differences’. It makes customers clearly aware of what he/she will become/gain after purchasing the product. For instance, Tom Ford is rememberd by its extreme sexiness，Serge Lutens’s charming and retro ad girls are loved by fashion bloggers, while Perfect Dairy presents undisguised neutrality and unlimited beauty.

Tom Ford美妝廣告

PERFECT DIARY完美日記粉底液

完美日記曾聯(lián)名Discovery，推出探險(xiǎn)家十二色動(dòng)物眼影盤。發(fā)售當(dāng)日即售罄，2019雙十一當(dāng)天銷售額超過了天貓眼影總銷售額的三分之一。 從產(chǎn)品設(shè)計(jì)，到投放的視覺廣告。完美日記做到了非常有意思的視覺傳達(dá)：中性，力量，獨(dú)立。雖然完美日記也利用了大量網(wǎng)紅氣質(zhì)的KOL來作為自己的宣傳口碑帶貨的渠道，但是在品牌視覺這個(gè)層面，完美日記的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)一開始就是國(guó)際大牌的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)。他們把能外包的工作，都外包完成，換取了發(fā)展的速度和品牌的高度，從一眾小廠當(dāng)中，脫穎而出。

Perfect Dairy once co-branded Discovery and released the Explore Eyeshadow Palette. And they were sold out before the release date ended. The sales of this product on ‘Double Eleven’ in 2019 exceeded one-third of the total sales of Tmall Eye Shadow. From product design to visual advertising, Perfect Dairy can always transmit its messages to its costumers: neutrality, strength, and independence. Though the company also uses a lot of KOL(Key Opinion Leader) to promote its products, the standard of its own brand vision is always high. They outsource everything which is ‘outsource-able’ just in exchange for the speed and scale of development. And it helps them reach a new height.

　　這個(gè)系列眼影的視覺物料和廣告TVC由PERFECT DIARY完美日記和國(guó)內(nèi)的視頻團(tuán)隊(duì)MINTAKA合作完成，這個(gè)團(tuán)隊(duì)就是完美日記背后從產(chǎn)品設(shè)計(jì)，到視覺營(yíng)銷眾多秘密武器之一。

The visual materials and advertising TVC of this series of eye shadows are completed by PERFECT DIARY and the domestic video team MINTAKA . You cannot continue to talk about how great those videos are without mentioning this team. From product design to visual marketing, MINTAKA is also one secret weapon of Perfect Dairy.

完美日記DISCO禮盒廣告

MINTAKA與完美日記合作的廣告大部分延續(xù)了這種強(qiáng)烈個(gè)性，為女性“造夢(mèng)”。在DISCO禮盒廣告中，模特在80年代舞廳跳著電影《低俗小說》的舞蹈。

Most of the advertisements that MINTAKA cooperates with Perfect Diary show this strong personality which “build dreams” for women. In the DISCO gift box advertisement , the model performs the classic "Pulp Fiction" dance in the ballroom.

PREFECT DIARY完美日記復(fù)古眼影盤

在暗夜鎏光高光粉餅廣告中，星塵里巨大的希臘神話式置景及雅典娜概念的展現(xiàn)，都打破彩妝視覺定式。

In the advertisement of the Aurora Translucent Highlighter, both the huge Greek mythological setting in the cosmic stardust and the display of the concept of Athena break the visual stereotypes of cosmetic.

PREFECT DIARY完美日記星河高光

但這種記憶符號(hào)需要基于品牌基因所定制。花西子，自身擁有強(qiáng)烈的中式美學(xué)視覺體系。無論是爆款口紅上的中式雕花，還是融入西湖之景的鞠婧祎散粉廣告，全部汲取中國(guó)古典之美，服從于品牌形象，形成記憶符號(hào)扎根于消費(fèi)者�；ㄎ髯拥倪@條廣告TVC，也是由MINTAKA 制作完成。

But this memory symbol needs to be customized based on brand genes. Florasis has a strong Chinese aesthetic visual system. Both the most popular lipstick and the loose powder into which Chinese traditional elements, West Lake, are integrated, are inspired by Chinese classical beauty. In the end they serve the brand image, and plant a symbol rooted in the memory of the consumers. This Florasis ad TVC was also produced by MINTAKA.

　　創(chuàng)意視覺制造的價(jià)值

　　The Increasing Value of Creative Vision

36氪的2019年末品牌偏好調(diào)查顯示，年輕消費(fèi)者選擇品牌時(shí)最在意性價(jià)比、質(zhì)量和視覺設(shè)計(jì)。越年輕，在意視覺體驗(yàn)的比例越高。產(chǎn)品之外的創(chuàng)意性視覺是頭部國(guó)產(chǎn)美妝的投入重點(diǎn)之一。 以此制造的話題，更能增加品牌知名度，為溢價(jià)加碼。

36 Krypton's 2019 brand preference survey shows that young consumers are most concerned about cost performance, quality and visual design when choosing a brand. The younger you are, the more you care about the visual experience. Creative vision beyond of the product is one of the key points domestic brands have always been focusing on. Topics created in this way can increase brand awareness and charge the price premium.

朱正廷成為完美日記唇妝代言人。盡管男性藝人與彩妝結(jié)合將趨于常態(tài)，但當(dāng)時(shí)的視覺沖擊還是有別于傳統(tǒng)認(rèn)知，帶來不止于粉絲群體，更有大眾群體的參與討論。朱正廷所涂抹的唇膏毫無懸念成為爆款。

Zhu Zhengting(a Chinese singer and actor) became the spokesperson for the perfect diary lip makeup. Although the combination of male artists and make-up will tend to be the norm, the visual impact at that time was quite massive, since it was different from traditional Chinese cognition, bringing not only fan groups, but also public groups to participate in the discussion. The lipstick that Zhu Zhengting applied without any suspense became one of the most popular products of that year.

PERFECT DIARY完美日記 朱正廷玻璃唇釉

2019年，大都會(huì)藝術(shù)博物館慈善晚宴(Met Gala)將坎普作為主題，邀請(qǐng)全球時(shí)尚明星名人穿此風(fēng)格服裝出席。國(guó)內(nèi)如品牌集合店P(guān)lay Lounge等提前反應(yīng)，順勢(shì)推出他們所理解的中式坎普服裝。完美日記直接與大都會(huì)藝術(shù)博物館推出聯(lián)名眼影盤，與MINTAKA 創(chuàng)意團(tuán)隊(duì)將極富戲劇性的坎普風(fēng)拍入廣告。而這些創(chuàng)新與嘗試都在為品牌價(jià)值加分。

In 2019, the Metropolitan Museum of Art Charity Dinner (Met Gala) used ‘Camp’ as the theme and invite fashion celebrities from around the world to wear this style of clothing to attend. Domestic brands such as the brand collection store Play Lounge responded in advance and launched their Chinese-style Camp apparel. Perfect Diary launched a co-branded eyeshadow palette directly with the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Meanwhile they worked with the creative team of MINTAKA and put the extremely dramatic Camp style into the advertisement. And these innovations and attempts are beneficial to its brand value.

　　PERFECT DIARY完美日記小金鉆口紅

　　從世界工廠，到C-BEAUTY

　　From ‘The World’s Factory’ to ‘C-BEAUTY

2019國(guó)內(nèi)經(jīng)濟(jì)放緩，中國(guó)美妝逆勢(shì)上漲。2020年的市場(chǎng)正經(jīng)受新冠疫情的挑戰(zhàn)，根據(jù)各大品牌第一季度的財(cái)報(bào)來看，一股寒流將不可避免的影響整年的行業(yè)發(fā)展，加速國(guó)內(nèi)美妝行業(yè)的整合。

In 2019, the domestic economy slowed down, but Chinese cosmetics market rose against the trend. The market in 2020 is being challenged by the COVID-19. According to the first quarter financial reports of major brands, the slowdown will inevitably affect the industry development throughout the year and accelerate the integration process of the domestic beauty industry.

國(guó)產(chǎn)美妝品牌是否培養(yǎng)了消費(fèi)者足夠的忠誠度?騰訊廣告TMI騰訊營(yíng)銷洞察攜手波士頓咨詢聯(lián)合發(fā)布的《2020 中國(guó)“社交零售”白皮書》指出：社交零售中，只有19%的消費(fèi)者忠于品牌。并且博主中流行著這么一個(gè)詞：“平替”，即貴價(jià)商品的平價(jià)代替。

But have domestic beauty brands cultivated enough loyalty among consumers? 2020 China " Social Retail " White Paper released by Tencent Marketing Insights and Boston Consulting jointly pointed out that in social retail, only 19% of consumers are loyal to the brand. And there is such a popular word among fashion bloggers: "Parity replacement", that is, parity replacement of expensive products.

李佳琦曾在直播中一半嘴涂國(guó)際大牌口紅，另一半涂國(guó)產(chǎn)口紅，顯示質(zhì)地、色號(hào)可完全代替，女孩們卻依舊覺得自己缺一支Armani或YSL。品牌如L'OREAL PARIS、Estee Lauder，歷史故事和品牌力都難以復(fù)制，國(guó)產(chǎn)美妝應(yīng)建立其他優(yōu)勢(shì)應(yīng)對(duì)。通過視覺創(chuàng)造的美，增加品牌附加價(jià)值，將繼續(xù)是贏得競(jìng)爭(zhēng)的重要一環(huán)。

Li Jiaqi once, in his live broadcast, smeared international lipsticks on half of his lips and domestic lipsticks on his other half, showing that the texture and color number can be completely replaced. However, there are still plenty of girls feeling that they lack/need an Armani or YSL. Brands such as Estee Lauder, L’Oréal, have historical stories and brand power which are difficult to copy. So domestic cosmetic brands should try to establish other advantages. The beauty created through vision will add more value to their brand and eventually be an important part of winning the competition.

從全球來看，歐美系、韓系、日系美妝有著明顯的視覺趨向，并因此產(chǎn)生持續(xù)性的巨大經(jīng)濟(jì)效益，在過去代表著發(fā)達(dá)國(guó)家文化的審美取向，時(shí)尚和審美甚至可以說是一種文化上的權(quán)利。那么國(guó)產(chǎn)美妝，甚至推而廣之以美為核心概念的國(guó)產(chǎn)品牌，能否形成一種中系“C-BEAUTY”? 中國(guó)是成熟的世界美妝產(chǎn)品代工廠，卻長(zhǎng)時(shí)間被迫忽略了中系視覺力量的塑造可能，以及當(dāng)中可創(chuàng)造的經(jīng)濟(jì)附加，然而這種狀況，在急速的發(fā)生著變化，因?yàn)槭袌?chǎng)，對(duì)美有了更高的需求。

Globally, European, Korean, Japanese cosmetic also gradually focus more on vision creativity on their brand, and therefore sustainably generate huge economic benefits. In the past the aesthetic and fashion standard of the developed countries could even be regarded as Cultural rights and cultural outputs. So, the question here is: Can domestic cosmetic products or brands create and popularize our own "C-BEAUTY "? China is a mature factory of cosmetic products in the world, and we for a long time has been ignoring the possibility of shaping the Chinese visual power and meanwhile losing the economic surplus it could’ve created. The United States has a higher demand. But now a great change is taking place in this market.

PERFECT DIARY完美日記星河眼影

要形成“C-BEAUTY” ，單靠品牌自身無法完成。在中國(guó)時(shí)尚領(lǐng)域，以海歸派設(shè)計(jì)師、造型師、攝影師等為主的時(shí)尚從業(yè)者已讓這種視覺感受初有雛形。他們同樣攏聚在像MINTAKA這樣的“混血”團(tuán)隊(duì)。這些意見領(lǐng)袖，在打造更符合市場(chǎng)需求的視覺體驗(yàn)的同時(shí)，未來也必將在有意無意中，讓“C-BEAUTY”成型于混沌。這是一個(gè)中國(guó)站上世界舞臺(tái)中心的時(shí)代，他必然要得體。

To create " C-BEAUTY ", the brands alone cannot make it. In the field of Chinese fashion, fashion practitioners mainly composed of returned designers, stylists, photographers, etc. have given this visual experience a preliminary shape. They love gathering together in a "mixed" team like MINTAKA. These leaders, while creating a visual experience that meets more with the needs of the market, will surely lead ‘C-BEAUTY’ to a bright future.

國(guó)際品牌如MAC便早早順應(yīng)本土市場(chǎng)，與中國(guó)創(chuàng)意團(tuán)隊(duì)，華裔藝術(shù)家合作。國(guó)內(nèi)美妝品牌亦如此，當(dāng)利用好創(chuàng)意人才，尋找出自身適用的本土玩法走在前頭，才可繼續(xù)逆勢(shì)而為。

International brands such as MAC adapted to the local market long time ago. They chose to cooperate with Chinese creative teams and artists. So should our domestic brands. Make the best use of creative talents, find out what is best for them, and they can continue to forge ahead. This is an era in which China stands at the center of the world stage, and he must be decent.

PERFECT DIARY完美日記水光唇釉&MINTAKA

(新媒體責(zé)編：syhz0808)